The Answer Lady
Innovative Ideas for Knitters

THE ANSWER LADY'S MACHINE KNITTING NOTEBOOK
A progressive machine knitting course. The notebook begins with a master pattern for a basic drop shoulder crew neck sweater. "Chapters" will be added to expand the pattern. Each chapter may be purchased separately. Only buy those that you want. Every chapter adds an option to the basic pattern and describes new techniques. The master pattern is written for light worsted weight yarn and can be knitted on mid-gauge, bulky and Bond-type machines. Future patterns will add additional style options. You'll never need another pattern--just keep on adapting this one for predictable results every time!
MASTER PATTERN includes finished chest sizes 20-52 to fit infants thru extra large adults. Largest sizes may require more needles than are present on some machines but may be knitted in panels. A chapter on panel knitting is forthcoming. Pattern is unisex. Directions included for ribbed or rolled hems and necklines. Skills explained include: e-wrap, backstitch, holding stitches, use of waste yarn, ravel cord weaving in ends and more. Pattern is beginner friendly. More advanced knitters may enjoy it as a canvas upon which to try picture knitting, embroidery, duplicate stitch and applique. E-pattern $12 as an instant download SHORT SLEEVES. You must have the master pattern to utilize each new chapter, including this one. Chapters will not duplicate info in the master pattern to keep cost down. In this chapter learn to modify the design for short sleeves plus learn 2x1 rib, latch tool bind off, transfer bind off, using the bind off as a decorative touch and how to knit sleeves from the top down, eliminating a shoulder seam. Pattern is written for bottom up AND top down sleeves. E-pattern $4

don't look like this!

Add the dart you need to look like this!
NEW CHAPTERS TO THE KNITTING NOTEBOOK
EACH NEW CHAPTER IS $4. click the button below the descritpion to order the chapter.

MODIFIED DROPPED SHOULDERS make the sweater neater and more flattering to many wearers

MAKE IT A CARDIGAN

DARE TO DART! unlike the other chapters,this one can be used to figure darts on any pattern though the pre-figured values in the chart will only work for patterns of the same gauge. Included is lots of information on how to determine the need for a dart and figure it in any gauge.

MAKE IT A SLEEVELESS SHELL OR VEST shows how to shape and finish the armholes.

MAKE A KEYHOLE FRONT. This is also called a tab front and is the type seen on polo shirts.

CREATE A CABLE. Learn how to make cables, how to add them to the basic pattern and how to make cable charts. 5 basic cables included.

click here for a free pattern: plenty of purses
CIRCULAR CAST ON
Bring every other needle on both beds to work, setting the racking handle so that they alternate and will not hit. Full needle rib may be cast on in the same way using every needle on each bed. The racking positions are different for full needle rib and for 1X1 rib but in either case needles must alternate when they come forward. Knit zig-zag row using stitch size 1 or 2 and both carriages.Use the tightest stitch size that will succeed in knitting without breaking the yarn. You will see that the yarn zig-zags from bed to bed, thus the name. Hang cast-on comb and weights. Set the carriages so that one knits one direction and one the other. This may be done with side levers, partial knitting buttons or, for Passaps the dial setting of CX/CX. Knit 2 rows at a stitch size about the same as the ribbing stitch size would be. These rows are called "circular" because the yarn is making a circuit. If you knitted lots of them the knitting would form a tube, which is a circle. After 2 rows, the cast on is complete but some knitters like to knit 3 rows to get back to the side the carriage started on. Now the main knitting may proceed. You may move straight from a circular cast on into ribbing or most other double bed stitches. This is a useful cast-on where stretch is needed.

MARK EACH SIDE OF KNITTING or HANG YARN MARKERS
Where simple shapes are being knitted, armholes and necklines are often marked in this way. Use a length of contrasting yarn 3-4" long. Hang one on each needle that is to be marked along with the stitch that is there. When the next row is knitted, the markers will be caught in the fabric so that you can use them for reference later. When their work is done, the short lengths are easy to pull out without damaging the main knitting.

CHAIN STITCH CAST OFF or LATCH TOOL BIND OFF
Technically, there are several bind offs that make chain stitches. But the others will usually be designated "bind off around gate pegs" or "bind off with transfer method". Usually the chain stitch cast off refers to this method: If you are right handed, finish knitting with carriage at left, on right for lefties. Holding the latch tool in your hand, pick up the first stitch on the side opposite the carriage with the latch tool. Slide the tool forward so the stitch goes behind the latch. Pick up the 2nd stitch and pull it through the first. Slide the stitch that is now on the tool behind the latch and continue,chaining one stitch through the next and finally pulling the yarn tail through the last stitch. This is a firm bind off that will tend to pull in. It requires that the last row of knitting be loose enough to chain so it may need to be knitted larger than the main knitting. If you find it difficult to do on the machine, follow the last row of main knitting with ravel cord and waste yarn and drop it off the machine. Work the bind off in your lap, then pull out the ravel cord.

BIND OFF IN BACK STITCH
Right handed people start at the right, left handed at the left. Using a length of main yarn on a yarn needle that is 3 times the width of the knitting, go down through stitch 1, up through stitch 3, down through 2, up through 4 and so on across the work. This may be done while the work is on the machine or after removing it on waste yarn. The result is neat and somewhat stretchy. It is the best match for an e-wrap cast on of all of the cast-offs.

WASTE YARN
yarn that is used before or after the main knitting. It won't be part of the garment. It's use is to keep stitches open or to give something to hang the weights on.

RAVEL CORD
Any strong, thin smooth yarn or cord can be used. Knit 1 row before or after the main knitting, between the main knitting and the waste yarn. When pulled out, ravel cord leaves a neat edge of open or finished stitches, whichever it was knitted into. It allows the use of waste yarn without having to pick it out stitch by stitch.

SHORT-ROWING AND THE AUTOMATIC WRAP
Usually when short-rowing, needles are placed in hold on the side of the work away from the carriage and a row is knitted towards the needles being held. Then, to prevent the formation of holes in the fabric, the first held needle next to the last working needle is wrapped with the yarn that is being knitted. At this point, it is important to make sure that all the slack in the yarn is pulled up because sometimes it catches in the carriage or on the needles. Then the next row is knitted. A very similar effect can be achieved with the "automatic wrap". To do this, place 1 needle fewer than the pattern calls for in hold. Knit towards the held needles. Place another needle in hold and knit back. This is a faster method of short-rowing that produces a flatter fabric. It is not quite identical to the first method so be consistent throughout the project.